Have Fun With Vinyl Railings

By: Adam Peters




Making vinyl railing is fun. All that you require is just a hacksaw, a screwdriver, glue, (and perhaps some practice) and you can start making your own porch railings like a pro.

Long Lasting Vinyl Porch Railings

Wooden porch railing is slowly being replaced by Vinyl railings since it has many advantages over wood railings. The major advantages are

The vinyl porch railings are long lasting. They last longer than wood railings

They are virtually maintenance free. The painting required for wooden railings is not required for the vinyl railings. (You have additional time for your golf. No more of “paint the fencing and then only you can go for golf” type of order from the lady of house)

The vinyl railings look good for long time if you have selected the material in a proper way.

It is ideal material for DIY work. Just cut and paste work is involved, with minimal skills you can build good looking railing systems for your porch

It is virtually unaffected by whether. Sunlight snow, rain does not mar the looks if you have selected the material properly.

How To Erect Vinyl Porch Railings

The porch railings systems are available in market today. You can choose the color combinations you like and bring the material and start working on it. The speed with which you can do the work will amaze you. However, you must follow certain rules for making a good-looking Vinyl porch railing.

Make a plan for railing. Count the number of posts you will require for your railing system. Keep a distance of about 6 feet between each post so that it will have strength and will not give way when you lean on it.

Select a coloring system for you railing system. Vinyl porch railing can be given the color of your choice just by selection of material. If it is possible, you can make a colored sketch your self on your computer and see how the railings will look like.

You can select different colors for the top railing, the stand post, and the bottom support. You can also select a different color for the center rail.

Make your purchases from the same store and from the same manufacturer. That way you not only save, but also make sure that everything fits together. Remember loose fitting system cannot make a good railing

Now you can start working on railings. Follow the simple procedure given below.

1.Working with your Vinyl porch railing starts with marking the post. The accuracy with which you mark the posts determines the look of you railing systems and therefore you should take great care in marking the posts.

2.The verticals posts, the top rail, and the middle rail can now be made. Make the entire railing on the ground before erecting and fixing it in the bottom posts. Once you erect and fix the verticals, it might be impossible for you to work on them later on.

3.Work on flat ground and complete one side or at least the maximum portion of the side. This way you will make sure that you do your work with minimum help from outside and with minimum efforts.

4.When the entire side is complete, you can start gluing them to the bottom posts. You might require some help here as it might be impossible to lift the railing and fix it in position. Your family members or friends can help you.

So you can erect the vinyl porch railings with minimum efforts and go for your golf routine or fishing expeditions.


About The Author

Adam Peters writes for http://www.deck-porch-railings.com . A website with tips on home improvement at http://www.deck-porch-railings.com/vinyl_porch.html .

Guide to Mounting your Satellite Dish

By: Adam Maywald

Be Nice To Everyone Including Your Building Inspector
Whole House Remodel Problems
Remodeling Your Home On A Budget


The Dish Network satellite dish is only about 2 feet in diameter. Very much a space saver when it comes to mounting the satellite dish on a wall, fence or garage!

Since the satellite dish is small, it is also light and not bulky in size, this also makes it easier to mount.

Satellite dishes have two antennae's which are pointing back to the dish and shooting off into the blue sky.

These 2 receiver antennas help bring in a signal to your dish and display the signals they receive on your television.

If you purchase a satellite dish brand new, you won't have to worry about mounting it, because your local satellite installation crew will do all the installing for you. They don't want you trying to climb up a 10 foot ladder to mount their dish, so they'll do it for you, which is usually free anyways.

But if you do have to mount your dish yourself, make sure you have the Dish Network satellite pointing directly into the sky away from trees, little children and buildings.

By following this step, you will be able to receive the most premium possible signal from your satellite dish. This will also provide quality viewing on your television screen!

If you wish to not mount the dish on your home you can also go another route. Most satellite dish providers have tripod stands for you. This is a great alternative if your apartment or condo complex doesn't allow you to nail anything to their exterior walls.

One downfall with the tripod is it can be very finicky. Make sure you put the tripod and satellite dish in an area away from people and dogs or any animal of either species for that matter.

I have had some problems with guests bumping and every so gently tapping the tripod and the TV goes blank..."Looking for signal" is what you'll see on your television. Even the slightest nudge could result in you jumping out of bed in your pajamas and slightly tapping the satellite dish until the signal is received again.

What's funny about that is the slightest tap can effect the signal its receiving, but rain, snow nor wind won't usually effect the signal...go figure?

About The Author


Adam Maywald
For more great information on a satellite dish and providers of the services mentioned, go to http://www.DishNetwork-vs-DirectTv.com for more information.

Home Tips On Fixing Up Your House

Things That Add Value To Your Fixer-Upper Home
by: Sarah Miller

http://homebuyerguide.blogspot.com/ http://houseideas4u.blogspot.com/

Things that add value to your fixer-upper home

Fixer-upper homes apparently need a lot of work to increase their market value. What things should you do to really make the most out of your renovation efforts thus increasing the value of your fixer-upper home?

Pristine walls – Fixing up your walls is an inexpensive way to increase the value of your fixer-upper homer. You can do the paint job yourself. Choose colors that will make the house “look expensive”.

Renovate the bathroom – It is known fact that a great bathroom will increase the value of any house. Homebuyers tend to take a look at the bathroom first so focusing on renovating this part of the house is a must. Adding another bathroom in the house can further increase its value.

Renovate the kitchen – Aside from the bathroom the kitchen is another part of the house that can increase its value. Home buyers, especially the ladies, take this as a major factor when considering buying a home.

Improve landscaping – Taking care of the lawn and making it look attractive will add to the value of your fixer-upper home. You don't need to hire professional landscapers to improve its appearance.

Don’t overlook the garage, closets and laundry – These three parts of the house are most of the time overlooked. As simple as them may seem, they can increase the value of the fixer-upper home because it adds convenience. Bedrooms with spacious closets are always attractive. Garage and pathway maintenance is also important. Lastly, a house with a laundry room will also increase its value.

Maintain windows – Cleaning your windows every now and then will help maintain its good condition. This won't increase the house’s value but it will help in maintaining its current value.

Change carpets – Nothing is more unappealing than dirty and stinky carpets. Carpets tend to acquire a lot of dirt and cleaning old carpet may not do the trick. What you want to do is change the entire carpeting for the house. This will make a big difference.

Remove clutter – Throw away excessive things that are eye sores. Excessive junk can make a house less appealing and lower its value.

In general, you should fix up the exterior first because this is what people see first and it will give them an impression that your house is a keeper and is of high value. This doesn’t mean that you should ignore the interior. Bottom-line, the most important part of the house that you should focus on to increase a fixer-upper home’s value are the bathroom and the kitchen.


About The Author

The above article was written by Sarah Miller on behalf of a buzzing online Home Improvement community where homeowners easily and painlessly find the right contractor for their home improvement projects and in turn, contractors can find the right Home Improvement Leads! Also check out the http://quotecity.com/ Blog for more related Home Improvement Articles and Ideas.

Cavity Wall Insulation

– How It Works And How You Can Get It Installed For Less
by: Alex Perry

One of the best ways to save on your heating bills and make your home warmer in winter is to install ‘cavity wall insulation’. Plus if you choose the right installer you can get the job done professionally for a very low price, with a 25 year guarantee. In fact some people can get it done completely free. The following article explains all about cavity wall insulation and how to get it installed for less.

In most UK houses built after the 1920s, the external walls are made of 2 layers with a small air gap or cavity in between them. If your home has unfilled cavity walls, a considerable slice of your energy bills will be spent heating the air outside. In fact it is estimated that around 35% of the heat from your home is lost through the walls.

Filling the gap between the 2 walls of a house with an insulating material massively decreases the amount of heat (and money) that is escaping through your walls. This could save you between £130 and £160 a year on your fuel bills for an average house, according to the UK’s Energy Saving Trust, and pay back the cost of installation in under 2 years. It will also prevent around 1 tonne of CO2 emissions each year, so makes a significant contribution to fighting Climate Change. Plus having your cavity walls insulated will make your home more comfortable by evening out the temperature in your home, help reduce condensation, and also keep your home cooler in hot summer weather.

This is a job that is definitely best done by a professional, as it can be quite technically demanding and requires specialist equipment. However, despite paying a contractor, it can be done for little money. This is because the large UK gas and electricity companies heavily subsidise the cost of insulation through certain contractors, in order to reach their carbon reduction targets set by the government. Typically they pick up 30 to 70% of the bill, no matter what your income. The contractor will also take care of all the paperwork, so that you automatically get these subsidies. In addition, if you receive certain state benefits, the government will pick up the rest of the cost so you can get your home installed completely free. When you get a quote from a contractor, they will be able to tell you whether you qualify for these grants.

How is cavity wall insulation installed? The cavity wall is injected with insulating material by drilling small holes in the external wall through the mortar joints. The holes are generally around 2cm wide and are made good after the injection by the installer. The material injected is normally ‘mineral wool’ (fibres made from rock or glass), polystyrene beads or white foam. All materials have a similar insulation performance. The insulation normally takes about 2 hours to install, but the time does depend on the size of the house and other factors such as access.

How do you know if your house has cavity walls? Most houses built after the 1920’s have been built with cavity walls. An easy way to check is to look at the brickwork in your outside walls. If all the bricks are laid the same way, with just their sides showing (rather than their ends), then you have cavity walls. But you don’t need to make sure of this yourself. All good insulation contractors will offer you a free no-obligation insulation survey, when they can check for your and let you know what is possible.

All reputable cavity wall insulating contractors in the UK are members of the Cavity Wall Insulation Agency (CIGA) guarantee scheme. This scheme gives you a 25 year guarantee on your cavity wall insulation, so that you can be completely confident in the quality of the work. Plus you will be able to pass this guarantee on to any future purchaser of your house, which will help contribute to your house’s value.

If you are interested in installing cavity wall insulation, you should contact a reputable contractor to request a free no-obligation survey. You can do this through the site mentioned at the bottom of this article (go to the page about insulation), or else several contractors advertise on the Internet (if you type in ‘cavity wall insulation’ into Google)



About The Author

Alex Perry is a founder of http://www.downwithco2.co.uk/ , a site dedicated to making it easy for people to save energy and cut their personal contribution to Climate Change by giving them information and putting them in touch with companies that can help. http://worldofstairs.blogspot.com/http://stairart.blogspot.com/

Wood Decking Tile

How To Choose An Interlocking Wood Decking Tile

By: Malcolm D Kay

Interlocking wood decking tiles or patio pavers are rapidly becoming a very popular product for quickly and easily covering drab concrete patios with an attractive solid wood surface. They have the big advantage that you don't need to rip up the old concrete and can simply lay them over the top, without any special surface preparation. And the beauty of these convenient patio pavers is that you don't need to be an expert handyman and you won't need a special set of power tools to install them. They just click together like a jigsaw puzzle. However there is now a increasing number of manufacturers offering such products, so making an informed choice between what's available is becoming more difficult. In this article, we discuss some of the main features of the tiles that you probably should consider before making a final decision on which tile would suit you best in your particular circumstances. Wood species This is probably one of the most important aspects in choosing a decking tile. Ideally you would choose a wood species with the highest natural durability, but there is the colour aspect to consider as well. Wood species can range tremendously in colour, from light straw through chocolate browns to deep orange red colours. But based on durability considerations alone, then one of the most durable and hard wearing species is undoubtedly Ipe wood from South America. Under this there are then a number of other wood species also from South America and a few from Southeast Asia. Rather than listing all the individual species, we suggest that you check the durability and other characteristics from an authoritative web site such as the USDA Forest Service at http://www2.fpl.fs.fed.us/Menu.ssi .

Note that some species, although they may be durable in respect of climatic considerations, may still be subject to insect attack such as termites which could be an important consideration in your particular region. Other considerations when choosing the wood species of course are whether the wood has been responsibly harvested or comes from managed forests. Wood thickness Most tiles on the market use wood slats which are approximately 5/8” (15mm) thick. Some manufacturers supply tiles with 3/4" thick slats and others with ½” thick slats. The product you choose to some extent depends on the location where you intend to lay the tiles. For interior situations such as basements, covered patios and other areas not subject to extreme weather conditions, then the ½” thick slats maybe entirely suitable. However in areas with more extreme climatic variation, we would suggest that the thicker wood is a better choice. Plastic base composition Plastic tile bases may be made of many combinations of plastic including polypropylene, polyethylene or other plastic materials. Whilst different manufacturers have their particular reason for choosing a specific plastic compound, the main considerations you should be aware of are the brittleness of the plastic, the low temperature characteristics (if you happen to live in a very cold area), and the UV stability of the plastic used. The latter point is extremely important as unless a plastic product used in exterior conditions contains a UV stabiliser, it can degrade very quickly. Interlocking mechanism Broadly speaking, there are only two types of interlocking mechanism used on decking tiles currently in the marketplace. Firstly there is the type that has female connectors on two sides and male connectors on the other two sides. Generally speaking, the female connectors are a series of loops which mesh with the pins on the other two sides. The other type of locking mechanism is completely symmetrical so that any side of any tile will lock with any side of any other tile such as SwiftDeck tiles from http://www.swiftdeck.com/. The disadvantage of the loop and pin style is firstly that it requires a bit more thought in laying the tiles as you must effectively only start in one corner of the area to be covered and keep on moving from that corner. It is difficult to install or remove one of these type of tiles in a central area without disrupting at least three of the tiles around it.

The other problem is that on the outer edge of final row you will have one tile with loops on the edge and the next tile with pins on the edge. There are also tiles on the market which are effectively one way connectors. Once you click the tiles into position, you cannot easily lift them up again. Whilst this may not be a disadvantage if you have no intention of changing the tiles at any time, it does limit your options if you intend to move your home or if you wish to change the design of the deck. The other problem with the loop and pin design is that if the manufacturer provides an option of clip-on transition strips, then you need two types of these - one which will connect with the pins, and one which will connect with the loops. And similarly if corner transition pieces are supplied as an option, then you also need two types of these as well. Availability of different designs Some manufacturers only supply one design of deck tile, generally with four slats of wood running in the same direction. Sometimes there is an option of a five or six slat tile. With other manufacturers you may have an option of more than one design. The advantage of this is that you can then mix and match the different designs to make attractive borders, centrepieces etc. Optional accessories If you are using the tiles to cover an existing concrete patio, you would probably have at least one open side. Thus on the final row tiles, you would be able to see the plastic base and the connecting pins unless they are hidden somehow. Some manufacturers therefore provide clip-on transition strips which also have the advantage of reducing the danger of shipping on the outer row of tiles. Corner transition strips are also normally available from such suppliers for the external corners. This covers the main design and material factors that you should consider when choosing a wood decking tile / patio paver. Of course as well as the above factors you would probably also want to take into consideration the price of the tile, the warranty being offered, any trial period being offered, the after sales service, return policy etc

About The Author
Malcolm Kay is the CEO of HandyDeck Systems Inc. a supplier of DIY exterior home improvement products including interlocking wood patio pavers. For more information see http://www.swiftdeck.com/.

Caring For Your Vinyl Siding

By: Henry Gallant



A low maintenance and durable material, vinyl siding is an increasingly popular home exterior. Even though it is a low maintenance material, you will still want to clean your vinyl siding from time to time. Just make sure you know about the best cleaning methods before you get started.

Simple maintenance cleaning of your vinyl siding is fairly straightforward. Use a long-handled brush with soft bristles or a soft cloth to wipe it down with soap and water. If your vinyl siding has textured surfaces to it, you will want to use only the brush with soft bristles so as to avoid wiping stains into the grooves with a cloth. Start with the vinyl siding at the bottom of your house and work your way up. This will help to prevent streaking from the soapy water running down your house. If you have other materials, such as brick, on parts of your home, cover them so that runoff from your vinyl siding will not affect it. Lastly, always make sure you rinse the area before the cleaning solution dries.

If you want to speed the process of cleaning your vinyl siding along, you can buy or rent a power washer. First of all, however, make sure you have read the instructions on the power washer thoroughly. Second, always make sure you use the power washer at eye level. If you try to point upward, you may end up with water and cleaning solution behind the vinyl siding. These can later leak and cause streaks that can eventually lead to decay.

From time to time, you may find spots of mold or mildew on your vinyl siding. If these spots are small, then you can simply use a name brand household cleaner. Just always be sure to test it on a small portion of your vinyl siding in an inconspicuous place to make sure it will not damage it at all. If, however, the spots of mold or mildew are a little larger, you can use a solution of 30% vinegar and 70% water. Another common homemade solution is mixture of powdered laundry detergent, powdered household cleaner, liquid bleach, and water. It is best to just find the one that is most convenient and effective for you.

Not all vinyl siding stains, however, are mold or mildew. You may end up with dirt, soot, or even animal stains on the outside of your home. If that is the case, there are a number of general cleaners that are approved for use on vinyl siding. Check your local store for simple household cleaners, and then read the containers carefully to find out if they are effective and safe for use on vinyl siding and specifically on whatever the stain is that you have found on your vinyl siding.

Increasingly, vinyl siding is a common home exterior. It is low maintenance, attractive, and easy to install. You may, though, from time to time need to clean your vinyl siding in order to keep it in good working condition. Before you do, make sure you understand what is necessary and what the proper procedure is so that your vinyl siding will look good and last a long time.

About The Author


Henry Gallant is an expert author at http://www.vinylsidingetc.com, a comprehensive resource on vinyl siding. Visit http://www.vinylsidingetc.com/ to get more information for your next vinyl siding home project.

Rehabing Your Home In 10 Days

How To Completely Rehab Your Home In 10 Days!
By Dan Auito

This report is about taking a house and restoring it to an aesthetically pleasing dwelling that has reclaimed it’s functional utility. In effect, it is the anti-aging medication for bricks and mortar.

This report assumes that you have already or will soon acquire the proper house. The one that is in essence, ripe for rehab. Be selective and sure of the house’s potential to allow for a profit after all the hard work is done. I will help you find your house or houses.

In the proverbial nutshell, it helps if you choose a house from the start that has a sound plumbing, heating and electrical system.

• Plumbing
• Heating
• Electrical

These are things that are expensive to correct in relation to the value they return to you upon resale. Most often, people cannot see the inner workings of these systems and they take them for granted.

Very few buyers are going to give you an extra $15,000-$20,000 in your asking price because you have replaced things that they can’t see and already take for granted as just a basic component that is buried in the structure. Also, they assume these components to be warranted against defects by you.

After all, it is mandatory in most, if not all states that you fill out a disclosure form that tells the buyer of every defect that exists or ever has to your knowledge. So inspect the systems of your investment alternatives carefully, as they can be expensive to repair and replace, with minimum dollar return value being realized at the sale.

Along these same lines, you should also pay close attention to the following cash vacuums:

• Roof
• Foundation
• Structural Integrity

Here are a few ways to quickly gage a home from its appearance:

Stand across the street from it. Now look at the bones of the structure. Does it look like a sway-backed horse, with the roof sagging in the middle? Does it have flat areas in its design that don’t allow water to be drained away quickly?

Water, dampness and rot are the equivalent of cancer to the human body when it concerns a structure. Shingles can be replaced. That won’t necessarily stop me from buying. Usually I will use that old roof as a bargaining chip in negotiating the seller down to a lower price. However, if I crawl into the attic and see that the plywood has become rotted and truss members are also affected, it’s time to move on to my next potential deal. Life is too short and I will never rehab it in 10 days if I have to rip the roof off and rebuild it too.

Some other conditions, such as sagging eves, wavy roof surface, rotten fascia and trim pieces, and insect infestations can be deal killers too, if severe.

Solution: Get into the structural members with a long, sharp, sturdy, standard flat-tip screwdriver and attempt to penetrate structural components that are made of wood. You won’t hurt anything if there are no underlying deficiencies. However, if someone has freshly painted over or patched it, that screwdriver is one heck of a lie detector! Use it.

Now, I’m not saying people would do that. It may just be the termites have eaten everything but the exterior coating of the wood to conceal their activity whatever the case probe.

There are also tile roofs, metal roofs, cedar shake roofs, hot-rolled Roofing, tar and gravel roofs and always a few new high-tech roof coatings. I feel my main concern is whether the decking or the roof support structure has been undermined by water, insects, rodents, poor materials, poor design or craftsmanship, a lack of fasteners, strapping, etc.

Shingles and coatings can be replaced. Just know what is underneath. That’s my criteria. Negotiate lower for needed replacement of roof coverings if you can. I dwell on roofs because it protects everything else!

Next on the list of deal killers is the foundation. The same thing applies to the foundation. I will start by standing back from it and looking at it from a distance. Does this place look like the Leaning Tower of Pisa? Or are the seams coming apart? Do the windows and doors look square? Are porches, stairs and additions on firm ground as well?

Block homes can tell you very quickly if they are stressed out just by the appearance of the mortar joints. Those giant unsettling cracks can and do tell a story. This does happen and mortar cracks maybe 10-years old. You need to investigate further.

Once again, water is a sign of trouble with foundations because it leads to erosion, rot, mold and mildew. It washes out foundation materials and slabs will crack. It rots sill plates and your walls are no longer firmly attached to a base.

If you have a crawl space, it’s time to get your coveralls on and get in there. Now, let’s use our heads here and I mean this! Before you enter a dark, supposedly uninhabited, infrequently entered, dark and restrictive to movement area, assess the situation. Ask someone who has knowledge of the dwelling if there has been any animal activity that they know of. You may also encounter bees, wasps, ants, spiders, snakes, slugs, mosquitoes, rats, mice and a host of other inhabitants. Beware and be prepared. It’s truly another world in some cases.

If you don’t want to do it, hire a professional and I do mean a pro, not some Joe who says he is one. For goodness sake, use a licensed professional home inspector to protect yourself in all areas if you’re just not sure!

OK, you’re a trooper and you’re going in. Good for you, Rambo! You’ll make it in this business because it takes faith, guts and determination. By getting into this type of situation, you’ll learn a lot more about every part of the homes you inspect.

You should have a strong flashlight, your trusty screwdriver, maybe some insect repellent and a safety observer standing at the access entry to give you piece of mind. Now you can go to the perimeter walls and inspect where the walls meet the foundation. Look for rot, misalignment, cracks, separations, water damage or any other condition that doesn’t appear normal.

While you’re down there, look at the other foundational supports, you will see pier blocks and posts, other concrete support pillars and walls, beams, joists and cross bracing, and the underside of sub-flooring. Check this stuff’s condition. Does it look original? Is it structurally sound? Or are there some discrepancies that need further investigation? Take a good look and smell!

Don’t leave yet. You also will want to look at all that plumbing and electrical that is there as well. Scan the perimeter. Do you see any sunlight coming in from where it shouldn’t be? That might be a hole that needs repair. This is common sense land, not computer a chip lab. You can inspect for general condition. Simply follow everything to its logical end, looking mainly at the condition of the different components.

OK, you’ve made mental and physical notes. Now dust yourself off and go inside the house if everything has checked out so far. So the roof and foundation have passed your keen eye. Let’s look at the rest of the house with respect to its structural integrity. More than half of your structural integrity check at this point is already complete as the roof and foundation are two of the most important components and those have been done. Now you are left with the interior spaces of the structure.

Here’s what I do once inside. I stand at the front door with a checklist in hand (www.inspectamerica.com) and I begin to scan the walls, ceiling and floors. I’m looking for water stains on all three surfaces, as well as patches that were used to repair or conceal damage. I go through every room and look for signs of damage or concealment.

Any flat floor is a good candidate for my scientific marble test. I’ll drop my marble; if it rolls to a corner, that floor ain’t level, Buckwheat. That’s a simple test but I do want to know that the under-layer or sub-flooring is sound and firmly attached to all those joists, and beams and trimmers and blah, blah, blah.

Soft spongy floors are of concern, creaky floors are annoying and rotten floors are another story. So once again, I’m looking at the structural support of the floors. I don’t care that the cheap, yellowed vinyl is coming up at the seams. I don’t care that the carpet is matted down or thread bare, and I don’t mind if the finish is worn off of hardwood floors or tiles are loose.

Floor coverings fall under the label of cosmetics. That’s such a pretty word and that’s what you want to concentrate on: cosmetics...more on that in a moment.

So the floors pass my test for sub-flooring and structural integrity is great. Now I can check that the walls are square because they are attached to that floor, and then I can check that the doors all operate properly and are square too.

How much more can there be than that, Dan? Well, let me tell you a few things that can bite you here. Let’s say the structure overall is good. By that, I mean you have a solid roof, a solid foundation and sturdy floors and walls.

What is behind those walls? The things that bite you aren’t usually seen until you get bit. One particular painful bite is finding out your wiring is not grounded or that the circuits are not properly protected. You’re looking for three-pronged outlets and modern plastic-encased wiring made of copper, not aluminum. You want circuit breakers, not fuses. What you really need here is a licensed electrician to do this more in-depth and professionally licensed review of the system.

I have seen more than one Joe Homeowner rehab go up in flames because of a lack of respect for electricity. Licensed electricians bring you up to code and protect your investment. Find a good one and make it a point to shower him or her with praise, attention and money well spent.

They will give you free estimates, so use them as a preliminary inspector with you. If you decide to buy it, use them to do the work that needs to be done.

Plumbers are a breed apart. You would think they use gold for soldering your pipes with the prices they charge. My grandfather was a plumber and I was on the truck with him at nine years old. A plumber may or may not give you a free estimate. With a little digging, it can be done. Just give them the work if indeed you do buy the house.

With plumbers, the only time you’re going to need one is if you are doing major system work or the once every ten year hot water heater job. Also the occasional clogged main sewer line to the street.

In today’s P.V.C. plastic plumbing kits world, you can hire just about any good all-around handyman to get the job done. If you have to tear through a wall to get at plumbing, building code inspector-man will say, “Get a licensed plumber.”

Heating and cooling: the air conditioning system, if the house you’re inspecting doesn’t have adequate heating and cooling, that can become expensive. Let’s say you have a flat roof home in a hot climate with window unit air-conditioners, and you intend on bringing this house up to what a modern day home dweller expects.

You may have a problem. Where would you put new ductwork if you don’t have attic space to house and route central heat and air? Once again, call in a pro if you need some advice. They do give free estimates!

Here’s a point for you to follow up on: the plumbing, heating and air-conditioning guys all drive service trucks. Be on the lookout for those trucks if they are your neighbors; go say “Hello” and introduce yourself.

Regardless, I have always done this and what I am saying is this: these guys most always work on the side and that means half price. You may have to pull a permit as a homeowner but the savings is substantial. Develop a network of these blue-collar geniuses. They are the guys who will transform your investment fast!

So now you have a solid house. By that I mean, plumbing, electrical, heating and air-conditioning, roof, foundation and overall good structural integrity.

So what’s left to do? Call in your army of carpenter ants, from painters to carpenters and flooring installers, yard maintenance and tree trimmers, and handymen of all sorts.

This is the whirlwind tour. Let the demolition guy in first. Order a dumpster for the next ten days. Order demolition man to throw out everything including the kitchen sink. What I am out to do at this point is to clear the decks.

A blank canvass is created for the painters to perform the transformation. They come in at this point and patch and paint. Let them blast the place with their airless paint-spraying arsenal inside and out. Give them 3 days and you have just added a huge improvement to your investment. This is the biggest dollar-for-dollar return you can make.

One cautionary note here: Make absolutely sure that quality paint is used. When it comes to painting, it’s the labor that kills you, not the material. I insist on Sherwin Williams Super Paint. It is a miracle formula that I am convinced could cover up bullet holes without any patching compound and it lasts forever. It’s worth every penny; insist on it!

So my idea of finding the ideal fixer upper is to find those where the structure and systems are fine but it still needs demolition man and the paint brigade. Everything up to this point has been inspection and appraisal of the situation. Once I’m satisfied that it is a cosmetic rehab and not the expensive money pit, I send in my cosmetologists.

I wouldn’t call these guys that to their face but these are normally men adding residential make-up to the bricks and mortar. Once the painters leave, the flooring guys are right behind them, laying tile and carpet. These guys are out in 2-3 days and my cabinet and handyman plumber are attacking.

Light fixtures, vanities, toilets, sinks, doors, switch plates and outlet covers…wham, ten days are up and this house is either held out for rent, lease-optioned or sold for a whole heck of a lot more than the ten grand I put into it, if that much.

You must be somewhat of an appraiser and deal finder. It takes time to recruit your cosmetologists, but you will run across them in your travels. Friends and family usually can provide you with some serious leads. Start networking and talking to tradesmen. Get their numbers and schedule them to descend upon your ugly duckling at certain times and watch the transformation begin.

It took me years to learn these tricks. I did it all myself for years and it always took three months when I did it myself. The sad part is that I thought I was saving money that way.

Can you see how much I actually lost? Here is a quick example. I bought a house for $55,000. Its deficiencies were purely cosmetic. I used other people to do all the work and I pitched in to keep them organized. Ten days later, it was done. I spent a total of $5,000 on materials and labor and it appraised at $90,000 in 10 days!

That’s $30,000 in 10 days, not 3 months. Now marketing time would take 45 days but I know how to do that too, and I will also show you how you can do it too.

There is no doubt about it. This can be done and you can do it. In all honesty, it may take you 30 days to achieve a completed house. That’s may be 3 times what it took me but I am experienced.

Here’s a pretty neat way I figured out how to find good cosmetologists (tradesmen). If I know relatively no one in the area, I will ask a local appraiser to suggest who he would use if he were me.

This is an intelligent way to ask that question. I ask it in this form: “If you were me, who would you use?” Now that triggers a self-preservation mechanism in their brain and they give me excellent people, who are very good at what they do! Try it; it works.

I went to appraisal school and learned a lot. Believe me, appraisers are underrated and treated poorly. They truly are experts at discerning quality and value. They know whom does quality work. Make friends with a competent appraiser and the lenders that accept their appraisals. Hint: You’ll get very fair evaluations and their lender approves them.

Marketing, hunting, finding and capturing the “ripe for rehab houses” is another book entirely. However, don’t lose faith because I have written that book for you as well. Here is an excerpt from my other book. It is called Magic Bullets In Real Estate.

There are 4 phases, or lifecycles, to real estate and here is how it often goes.

Phase 1 You will see new construction, bright shiny homes popping up,

landscaping contests, baby strollers and tricycles in the neighborhood.

This is probably going on in the suburbs of the city, as new growth tends

to radiate out at a pace of one mile per year from growing and

prosperous cities.

Phase 2 The same neighborhood now 10-15 years later has aged a bit and

now you see basketball hoops and 2-wheel bikes, as the kids are older

and want more mobility.

Phase 3 The kids are grown and gone with families of their own and now the

parents are riding their own 3-wheel bicycles, trikes to the hip grannies.

Here in Phase 3, you’re looking at 25-35 year old homes, where some

people are passing away. Others are just hanging in and some are

moving in with the kids or going to an A.L.F. (Assisted Living Facility).

No doubt, you have outdated homes, deferred maintenance and some

repairs to be made. Here is the beauty of this whole thing. These are my

cosmetology candidates. Here’s why! The formally elder owners lived

there and they needed everything to work. They didn’t update it. They

just fixed things that needed repair in order to maintain a level of

comfort. They had pest control and the Sears man come annually and

piddled around. So things were kind of looked after in that manner. Buy

here!

Phase 4 Revitalization – That’s what happens as a result of you buying your ripe-

for-rehab fixer-upper in Phase 3 neighborhoods. Odds are, you will rent

it out, lease-option it or sell it to a young family when it does sell, and

guess what? Yep, out come the tricycles and baby strollers and it starts

all over again.

Tricycles

Bicycles

3-wheel bikes (buy here!)

Revitalization

Determine what cycle different neighborhoods are in! Follow cycle #3.

Isn’t that a beautiful story; isn’t that the truth? Think about your own parents and your own childhood. Now I also want you to think about that brand new young family that is counting on you to treat them fairly and give them a trouble-free home when they buy or rent from you.

The harder and smarter you work, the better quality and value you can provide to others. Don’t rip them off. Don’t take advantage, don’t scrimp and for Pete’s sake, do your best to do your level best. You need education and help from others to achieve these heights of excellence.